Lake Tana in Ethiopia’s Amhara region was once a tourist hotspot, known for its picturesque shorelines and monasteries dating back to the 14th century. But since 2023, an ongoing war between the Fano militias and federal government forces has scared away the tourists. Cities are subject to shootings and grenade attacks, while rural areas face drone strikes and kidnappings for ransom. Now, the future of these ancient monasteries is uncertain. This report by our correspondent Tom Canetti.